Here we go again, heading up north hoping the weather gods will be kinder to us than on our last visit, we have unfinished business on the Inner Hebrides, our base was to be the early 18th century fishing port of Tobermory with it's brightly painted seafront buildings making it a real picture postcard place, a week to relax, take in some wildlife, visit Iona and maybe don the walking boots for a few short walks on the beautiful island of Mull.

Mull might be small but it's in your face small, always something jaw-dropping around the next corner, plenty of reasons to slam on the brakes and grab the camera or binoculars. The island runs at it's own pace, slow, nobody rushes, they can't it's nearly all winding single track roads, I hope they never improve them it wouldn't be the same without them.

I firmly believe the best way to see anywhere is on foot, far better than driving round in a tin box however posh the box may be, you see and experience lots more if you move with the rhythms of the land and sea, if you're a non walker why not give it a go you may find your missing out on something very special. It's safe to leave the car almost anywhere on the island so inevitably on went the walking boots.

Sunday morning saw us en route to Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse built by Robert Louis Stevenson's grandfather, it may be at sea level but commands some fine views over the Sound of Mull. Next we found ourselves striding out through the Glengorm (Blue Glen) Estate our destination Dun Ara Castle, probably the remains of a medieval fort resting atop a sea stack, more fine views this time to the mountains of Skye. We then crossed the Sound of Iona, Iona is Sue's favourite island, she calls it "beautiful little Iona", she's not far wrong, our last visit was too short, this time we intended to give ourselves plenty of time and walk to Port na Curaich the shingle beach where St Columba first set foot in Scotland bringing christianity to the Picts around AD563. Dug deep out of the sea washed cliffs on the north of the Ardmeanach Peninsula is MacKinnon's Cave one of the longest sea caves in the Hebrides, inaccessible after half tide, be warned this is a dangerous place though well worth a visit, the entrance is guarded by a rather large boulder field making this short walk even more exciting. Our next short excursion was a bit of a surprise, we found the path by accident after stopping to take photos on the road to Dervaig, the following day saw us on the said path ascending to "S Airde Beinn and the Crater Lake, this hill,s low by Scotland's standards but as we walked round the rim of this extinct volcano the views just opened up around us, short easy climb, just as well because the views left us gasping for breath. Aros Park from Tobermory an after dinner wander along the coast through mixed woodland where stolen views across Tobermory Bay had to be grabbed at every opportunity, our route circled a beautiful lilly filled lochen before returning along the coastal path. For our final walk we crossed the sea again this time on board the Ulva Ferry. Ulva has several short signposted walks, our route was to be long, following the south shore passing the abandoned villages of Ormaig and Cragaig to reach the Kilvekewen Graveyard, we intended to re-trace our steps to do some of the shorter walks near the ferry, imagine our disappointment to find the last ferry back was 5pm, Sue checked her watch we would see how far time would allow, in the event we reached Cragaig before deciding to have lunch before heading back.

Most of the walks we did can be done quite easily by any moderately fit individual, the times although given are irrelevant we dawdled, that seems to be how life is lived on these islands, we put the brakes on, enjoyed the scenery, wildlife and wonderful atmosphere.